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Making Maple Syrup
 

The making of maple syrup has been done here in America since before the white man even hit its shores. Upon their arrival, however, the settlers soon began to partake in the practice, and it continues today wherever maples are found. It is done both by commercial sugar houses and private homesteaders. If you've ever desired to tap your own tree and make your own maple syrup it can be done.

The best time to tap a maple tree is in late winter or early spring. The tap holes can be drilled anywhere on the tree but there are a few guidelines you should follow.

#1. Do not tap trees smaller than 10" in diameter.

#2. Early in the season sap production is highest on the south side of the tree.

#3. Drill holes no deeper than 3" into the wood and no closer than 6" from previously drilled holes.

#4. Drill holes at an upward angle into the tree, using a 7/16 drill bit for a 1/2" spiel or spout.

#5. If you have a tree over 2 feet in diameter you can have up to 4 spouts. Otherwise it is best to stick to two.

Once you've drilled your holes, gently tap the spouts into the tree. The sap should be collected in covered containers.
The Sugar Maple (Acer Saccharin) is the one maple which has a high enough concentration of sugar in its sap to produce 1 gallon of syrup for every 45 gallons of sap collected. There are about 5-8 varieties of maple growing in the Ransom Farm sugar bush but the majority of trees are Sugar Maple.
Pour the sap into a pot and place it on the stove or hotplate. Heat over medium high until it comes to a low boil, turn down and simmer. As the water evaporates continue to pour additional sap into the pot until you have used all of your sap.  The water will evaporate and the sugar will caramelize so the remaining syrup changes to a medium brown color.  Be especially careful as the syrup cooks down toward the bottom of the pan.  It is done when it is brownish in color and the general consistency of syrup.  Do not overcook or it will burn to the pot. Let it cool slightly and serve.  We poured our syrup over the top of a freshly baked cake.  You will not be able to make too much syrup as it takes about 40 gallons of sap to make on gallon of syrup.
A tap can be put anywhere in the trunk or main branches of the tree. The sunniest side of the tree will produce sap earlier in the day and season but I am told the taps on the shady side will produce later into the season and produce an equal amount of sap per year. I'm not so sure, anyway when the season is starting we're always so anxious to start boiling we try to tap the sunny side. After a tree has been tapped once, it is important to drill the next years hole at least 6 inches from the scars of past seasons taps. As I mentioned before, the hole starts to heal itself within about six weeks of drilling, but it can take several years to completely cover itself with live wood and bark. A small hole drilled into a tree trunk is a minor wound when compared to the damage of an ice or wind storm. But by keeping the holes properly spaced we give the tree a better chance of not letting a bug colony or fungus take hold and win the battle

 How Do We Know When to Draw the Syrup?

A very common question. At the exit end of the evaporator is a thermometer which extends into the boiling liquid. We all know that water boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit. And as the level of sugar dissolved in water (or the density of the liquid) increases the boiling point increases. The industry standard for maple syrup is when the boiling point reaches 219 degrees Fahrenheit.

Well that's mostly true, that boiling point is for a standard atmospheric pressure we call at sea level. The exact boiling point will be lower at higher elevations or when a low pressure weather system is over us. And, of course a high pressure weather system can swing the boiling point higher. And that can be confusing. So the first time every day we boil the thermometer is watched until we are a couple degrees below 219 and a beaker of near syrup is drawn and the specific gravity measured with an hydrometer. An hydrometer is a calibrated float (you may have seen them used to test your cars antifreeze concentration) that floats higher or lower depending on the amount of dissolved sugar in the water. The hydrometer we use is specifically calibrated for maple syrup. Once we reach the correct specific gravity we make note of the temperature and can draw syrup at that temperature for the rest of the day

BASIC EQUIPMENT

Basic equipment for syrup making includes: (1) a brace and bit, (2) spouts and hooks, (3) collecting buckets and covers, (4) gathering pails, (5) a collecting tank, (6) a vehicle if you transport the sap any distance, (7) one or more holding tanks, (8) a sugarhouse or building where the sap may be boiled down, (9) the stove like evaporator or arch on which the cooking is done, (10) an ample supply of firewood, (11) a cooking pan, (12) a hydrometer or thermometer, (13) skimmer, (14) milk can or similar container for holding the rough boiled syrup, (15) a finishing pan and stove, (16) felt strainer and (17) containers for the refined syrup.

Maple trees take exception to having holes punched in them, and get even by teasing sugar makers almost to death. If it's too cold, sap won't run. If it's too warm, it won't run. Come perfect, clear spring weather with freezing nights and thawing days, it'll run like Roger Bannister for a few days, and then stop. A storm might make it run again, but a rain storm will probably be too warm. A snow storm might make the sap run, but you never know. This is because the trees will drop down gobs of the white stuff and knock the tops off your buckets.

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